Repower Of '86 Albermarle 24 Express With 5.7 Vortec - Pics

Register for FREE to Use our Offshore Fishing Resources
Repower Of '86 Albermarle 24 Express With 5.7 Vortec - Pics
Repower Of '86 Albermarle 24 Express With 5.7 Vortec - Pics
NC Fishing Reports

Fish Here

41036
July 25, 2014 8:50 am EDT
Location: 34.207N 76.949W
Wind Direction: NNE (20°)
Wind Speed: 14 knots
Wind Gust: 16 knots
Significant Wave Height: 4 ft
Dominant Wave Period: 6 sec
Average Period: 4.7 sec
Mean Wave Direction: S (187°)
Atmospheric Pressure: 30.01 in (1016.3 mb)
Pressure Tendency: +0.06 in (+1.9 mb)
Air Temperature: 76°F (24.2°C)
Dew Point: 71°F (21.7°C)
Water Temperature: 81°F (27.0°C)

HOME OF THE ORIGINAL BATHYMETRIC/HARDBOTTOM MAP
IT Consulting to businesses
Less Fishing, More Catching
Web Hosting with Local Support

 Forum FAQForum FAQ   SearchSearch   UsergroupsUsergroups   ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

Repower Of '86 Albermarle 24 Express With 5.7 Vortec - Pics
 
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    FryingPanTower.Com Forum Index -> On The Hill
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
gsrsol84mm
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 3:10 pm    Post subject: Repower Of '86 Albermarle 24 Express With 5.7 Vortec - Pics Reply with quote

Big Mama had her original 1986 260hp 5.7 motor which I thought was getting tired. Not sure how many thousand hours are on the clock but it's a lot. The previous owner was sure he alone did over 2000hrs. For a standard 260hp motor it ran great. C5 props, 40.5 mph topend and a cruise of 30mph at 3200-3300 rpm depending on the seas. It is raw water cooled but has a flush system which the prevoius owner used, hence the longevity. I was getting 2.5 mpg on offshore runs with running and trolling mixed, My last 2 trips to the stream I started to notice the gas mileage dropping and was having a running issue coming back in. The last twp trips were 150 miles and 168 miles. The gas mileage dropped to 2.3 mpg and then 2.1 mpg. The last trip we got in and I said time to repower.
Really A great running boat that handles the seas well and won't beat you up.

Repowered Summer of 2011

In Hind sight, I don't think there was anything wrong with the original motor but really a fuel issue from the main filler fuel hose leeching into the tank. I had a small in line fuel filter that Garmin recommended for the GFS-10 flow meter and it was clogging causing the engine to be fuel starved. I gave the original motor to someone and it's running well in his boat now. Just tells you how tough those chev 350 motors are.
I since replaced the fuel filler hose and upgraded to a large canister 10 micron fuel filter water seperator.

I am still very pleased I repowered with the 5.7 vortec motor, just for the peace of mind 60+ miles offshore


<a></a><br><span></span>

I had a reman motor from Rapido Marine that had roller lifters. A friend of mine just repowered his Albemarle 24 express with a 5.7 vortec and his running number are great, along with 2.7-3 mpg.
I decided to convert that motor to a vortec by switching the heads and intake manifold.

Reman Block With Vortec Heads Ready To Be Installed
<a></a><br><span></span>

<a></a><br><span></span>

Vortec Heads Installed On Block
<a></a><br><span></span>


First Installed The Vortec Heads on the block.I torqued the head bolts 3 times and in the sequence the manual said to. 22lbs, 44lbs and then 66lbs
Next to install the intake manifold.
Tighten in an x-pattern in bolts then outer bolts.
1st: 61 INCH POUNDS, 2nd: 106 INCH POUNDS, 3 rd: 12 FOOT POUNDS. Have to go with the inch torque first as the foot pounds 3/8 wrench can't torque under 10lbs.

Valve Adjustment. There is a specific sequence you must adhere to. Set the motor for #1cyl at Top Dead center, To adjust a valve back off the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod. Tighten the nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrods with your fngers. When all lash is removed the pushrod will stop rotating. When all play is removed rotate the nut 3/4-1 full turn.

With the engine in #1 firing position the following valves can be adjusted:
Exhaust 1,3,4,8
Intake 1,2,5,7

Crank engine one full revolution - The following valves can now be adjusted:
Exhaust 2,5,6,7
Intake 3,4,6,8.

Valves Adjusted with above procedure
<a></a><br><span></span>

Intake Manifold Gaskets Installed ( Felpro ) You need a bead of RTV sealant on the front and rear of the block where the manifold sits
<a></a><br><span></span>

Intake Manifold Installed
<a></a><br><span></span>

Oil Primed In Motor With Drill and Tool that primes the oil pump
<a></a><br><span></span>
<a></a><br><span></span>

Valve Covers and distributor installed with rotor pointing to #1cyl
<a></a><br><span></span>

Motor Sprayed with ACE Hardware Rust Stop 1000Degree Barbeque Paint
<a></a><br><span></span>

OK, the motor is waiting for all the accesories from the old motor, Power Steering Pump, raw water pump, alternator, starter, carb, fuel pump, pulleys, flywheel, belts, hoses, etc.

Original Motor In 1986 Albemarle 24 Express
<a></a><br><span></span>

Removed Risers and starting to undo motor to be removed. Will have to remove the upper gear housing off the 290 drive to allow the flywheel housing to be unbolted from the transom shield. Going to remove the motor and flywheel housing as one unit.
<a></a><br><span></span>

Got the motor out today, Had to fight the six transom bolts a bit that go into the flywheel housing. The round helmet key was also a bit of a pain to remove.

First removed carb and distributor, unplugged the wire harness, removed the ground wires from the block, loosened the water pickup hose from the transom tube, drained the power steering pump with my oil dipstick pump, loosened the power steering line, removed the motor mount bolt, removed the upper gear head on the outdrive, removed the 6 transom bolts and out she came.

Motor ready to pull and chain hooked
<a></a><br><span></span>

Upper Gear Housing removed from Drive
<a></a><br><span></span>

Engine Hoist Slides Onto Forklift Arms. Custom Made By A Friend Of Mine
<a></a><br><span></span>

Original Engine Coming Out
<a></a><br><span></span>

Old 5.7 Motor
<a></a><br><span></span>

Old 5.7 Motor On The Stand Ready to transfer the brackets and parts
<a></a><br><span></span>

Bilge Area is quite clean. Will use Simple Green and a scrub brush to clean it up
<a></a><br><span></span>

Removed the flywheel housing from the original motor. You can see the buildup of grease through the gimbal bearing seals
<a></a><br><span></span>
<a></a><br><span></span>

Removed The Flywheel Dampner and flywheel from the original motor. Very pleased the flywheel bolts were not stuck. The flywheel is 12 3/4" and the rear main seal on the 1986 original motor was a one piece seal so everything will match up on the vortec motor.
<a></a><br><span></span>

The original motor stripped of al it goodies
<a></a><br><span></span>

Brackets and pulleys ready to go to the sand blasting machine
<a></a><br><span></span>

Installed the flywheel on the vortec motor. Used red loc-tite and torqued the bolts to 60lbs
.<a></a><br><span></span>

Installed the flywheel dampner on the flywheel with red loctite and torqued the bolts to 35lbs.
<a></a><br><span></span>

Removed the input shaft from the flywheel housing. There are 3 large c clips and 1 small c clip. The easiest was to drill a small hole in the seal ( Metal Lined ) and use a dent puller to pop the 2 seals out. Then remove the clips and press the input shaft out of the housings and the bearings off the shaft. The bearings actually looked OK but it's not worth taking risk once the motor is already out.

<a></a><br><span></span>

<a></a><br><span></span>

Degreased the flywheel housing with simple green. Painted the flywheelhousing, pulleys and brackets with Rust stop 1000 deg barbeque paint.( The run in the paint on the flywheen housing is on the original red paint, not me ) Painted the new osco exhaust manifolds and started to assemble the components back on the new vortec motor. Takes quite a bit of time when you have to clean up and paint everything.

<a></a><br><span></span>

<a></a><br><span></span>

Got the motor mostly put together today. Changed the thermostat housing to a stainless one for a mercruiser. It allows the use of a 1" hose to the exhaust manifolds. Also installed mercruiser brass drain taps on the exhaust manifolds. In conjunction with the drain taps on the block I can drain the whole motor in a few minutes. This will allow usage in winter, making it very easy to drain all water out of the motor and avoid a cracked block.
Installed AC MR43LTS spark plugs and gapped them to .035
This motor has a manual fuel pump. Had to modify the coil bracket as I changed the distributor to a new GM hei distibutor with a square coil pack. Used anti sieze on every bolt with the exception of the bolts that required loc tite. Torqued every bolt I could find a torque spec for including 18lbs for the spark plugs.

Hopefully we will run the motor on the ground tomorrow. Getting a lot closer.

<a></a><br><span></span>

<a></a><br><span></span>

Took the motor to a mechanic friend of mine who ran it on the ground and made sure everything looked good before going into the boat. Luckily I did this as we found that the motor did not have a notch on the cam for the manual fuel pump. This was a minor glitch and I had to go with an electric fuel pump. Took a little bit of planning and I mounted the fuel pump in the front of the engine box. I also modified the water pickup hose to go through a perko flush adapter, then the power steering cooler and then used a flex hose back into the raw water pump. This will make it easy to run the motor with a garden hose and allow me to flush the motor even if the boat is slipped in salt water.
The motor ran well on the ground and got the timing and carb set. Finally got the motor into the boat this evening. It is a little tricky with the forklift. Used 2 new O ring gaskets in the transom.
Got everyhting back together and fired the motor up in the boat. Seems really smooth. Will head to the lake tomorrow and give it a try.

Motor on ground ready to be hooked up and tested.
<a></a><br><span></span>

Cleaned the bilge with simple green and a scrubbing brush. Waiting to dry. Yes the plastic in line filter will be replaced with a metal one once the testing is completed.
<a></a><br><span></span>

Motor getting lifted to the boat
<a></a><br><span></span>

Motor on it's way. Took the risers off to make it easier to fit in the boat.
<a></a><br><span></span>

Finally New Vortec 5.7 Resting in the Albemarle
<a></a><br><span></span>

Ran the boat at the lake today. It ran very well. My buddy Matt came all the way from Raleigh to help me test the new motor and set the timing at the lake. The marine 5.7 likes more advance on the timing than a car 5.7. He got it dialed right in. The albemarle does seem to have more bottom grunt than the old motor. Same top speed of 40mph at 4300 rpm with C-5 Stainless props.
Matt has a 1989 Albemarle 24 Express and just installed a reman vortec as well. With B-6 props he tops out at 43-45mph at 4400 rpm.

The most fuel efficient running seems to be 28 mph at 3200 rpm getting 2.5 - 2.6 mpg. I think as the motor breaks in the gas mileage will improve 5-10%
With a combination of running and trolling I expect 2.6 - 3 mpg for a days fishing.
Very pleased with the repower. I expect a lot of good times with the new 5.7 vortec motor.

Motor finished in boat - (Yes I will be replacing the plastic fuel filter with a metal Wix filter after testing at the lake ?
<a></a><br><span></span>

Had to install an electric fuel pump as the cam did not have a lobe for the manual fuel pump
<a></a><br><span></span>

Perko Flush System - Makes it really easy to run on a garden hose and flush the motor
<a></a><br><span></span>

Garmin GFS-10 Fuel Flow Meter
<a></a><br><span></span>

3200 RPM for 28 MPH @ 2.5- 2.6 MPG
<a></a><br><span></span>
<a></a><br><span></span>
<a></a><br><span></span>

Finally All Came Together - Just have to install the back trim and it's all done
<a></a><br><span></span>
Cleaned, Painted and resealed the outdrive
<a></a><br><span></span>


Got it all buttoned up and finished.
<a></a><br><span></span>

Also installed a brass scooped pickup for the baig bag that goes on the transom. Worked really well and water flowed well even at 30mph. The hull was 1 inch thick. And yes I replaced the plastic fuel filter with a USA made WIX metal filter.

<a></a><br><span></span>

<a></a><br><span></span>

UPDATE 09/11
I was having a fuel issue at about half a tank when coming back in from offshore. I think the filler hose or gas tank vent hose may have been leeching material into the tank as they were the original hoses.
Gunk was clogging the 3/8" in line fuel filter that garmin suggested to use in from of the GFS-10 fuel flow meter.
I changed both the fuel fill hose and the gas tank vent hose and removed the 3/8" in line filter and replaced it with a large capacity 10 micron filter.
Our last trip to the stream worked very well. Did 171 miles and not fuel issues at all.
I am also getting better gasl mileage without the restriction of that 3/8 in line filter. I saw 2.9 -3 mpg at the lake at cruise which is better than I have seem before. Our last trip offshore was fully loaded with 5 people, a ton of ice and gear and nasty 4 foot seas. We did 171 miles and averaged 2.44mpg. Expect to get 2.5 - 2.6 mpg with 3-4 people and better weather.
The motor now has 55 hours on it and is running very well.

New High Capacity Fuel Filter replacing the 3/8" in line filter before the Garmin GFS-10 flow meter
<a></a><br><span></span>

<a></a><br><span></span>

1st Wahoo On The Big Mama
<a></a><br><span></span>

<a></a><br><span></span>

Nice Mahi Bull Caught On the Big Mama

<a></a><br><span></span>


Update 11/2011
Big Mama ran like a champ. Did a gulf stream trip
and spent 16 hours on the water, did 204 miles and got 2.77 mpg. 4 People with all the gear 2 big coolers with frozen ice bottles, etc.
Left in the dark and got back in the dark.

Very pleased with the repower

My Son's First Wahoo and Mahi.

<a></a><br><span></span>

<a></a><br><span></span>

<a></a><br><span></span>
  

Last edited by gsrsol84mm on Sun Jun 24, 2012 7:33 pm; edited 2 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
seapower
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Jun 18, 2009
Posts: 1153

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Makes me remember when I still saw wonder in all those shiny part's. Did you consider going back with a freshwater cooled system? I couldn't see where it was stated, but was the new engine a marine engine or an automotive replacement? I wish you the best of luck with it, not many out there that are willing to try on their own. Frank  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
tanktom
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: May 21, 2009
Posts: 404
Location: Scotts Hill

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really enjoyed your post! I have the GFS-10 for my Garmin 4208/Honda 200 outboard just haven't installed yet. Guess you would recommend the larger filter instead of the one provided?
_________________
State Time
212WA HydraSports
200 Honda 4 Stroke
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gsrsol84mm
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frank,
The original motor was raw water cooled but lasted because they flushed it after each use. The original motor is still in service today in another boat and has not rotted out.
I installed the perko flush kit and it's really easy to flush the motor. I flush my motor after every saltwater use and use salt-away. Just screw in the garden hose in and start the motor. Can also flush the motor when the boat is in the water.

If you don't flush the motor after each use, it won't be long before it rots out. If I left the boat in the water all the time I would probably run a fresh water cooling system.

The motor is a remanufactured 5.7 motor marine motor. Not sure if there is any difference between it and a standard 350 chevy block.

I still like the shiny parts. It's not a lot more effort to paint the motor right.
Also keep the rust away. The beauty of the Older Albemarle's is that the gel coat bufffs right up and looks great.
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gsrsol84mm
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tanktom wrote:
Really enjoyed your post! I have the GFS-10 for my Garmin 4208/Honda 200 outboard just haven't installed yet. Guess you would recommend the larger filter instead of the one provided?


Definately would not use the small filter supplied by Garmin and would use a large 10 micron filter prior to the GFS-10. You must filter before the GFS-10 or debris could jam up the paddle.
The GFS-10 is a great unit and would not want to run offshore without it.
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
bambam
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Sep 25, 2010
Posts: 1933

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did get that thing dialed in beautifully didn't I, lol!

Seapower, I have the fwc version of that setup with the horizontally front mounted heat exchanger and double gasketed blockout plates under the risers. While I understand that my block and manifolds should last forever, after seeing that 25 year old 5.7 running perfectly in big mamma it gave me a new appreciation for the longevity of a well maintained rwc 5.7 motor.
I repowered my boat last year. The reason for the repower was a blown blockout plate gasket causing water intrusion and causing a plethora of slow developing catastrophic issues. I kept my fwc system b/c there were some underlieing issues that caused that gasket to fail (like the faulty helicoil I found in the top of the manifold that the riser bolt tightened into), and I was able to make some small improvements to the system to insure that will not happen again. I like the idea of the fwc system and it is a well debated subject, but someone without a very good understanding of how an fwc system works and mechanical knowhow shouldn't fool with it b/c it can be trouble. The rwc system is simple and I have seen first hand that a rwc motor can last a long time.
_________________
TOTAL CHAOS
1989 Albemarle 247exp, OME 5.7 325hp fwc motor/Volvo 290DPA outdrive.

I yam what I yam...
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
WAHOONBOX
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: May 02, 2008
Posts: 1084
Location: MOREHEAD CITY

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

INCREDIBLE PICTORIAL AND HOW-TO.....FELT LIKE I WAS THERE WITH YOU ONLY MY HANDS ARE CLEAN....


THANKS FOR SHARING AND CONGRATS ON THE UPGRADE! AND CONGRATS TO YOUR SON!
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
seapower
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Jun 18, 2009
Posts: 1153

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Guy's "Apple's to Apple's,
A fwc system will no doubt (or should) out last a raw water cooled system. As for them being more complicated, I wouldn't think so.

BUT the HUGE difference here, is a guy that actually takes care of his machinery! Trust me, I don't see it very often at all. Matter of fact, I flush my Honda's after EVERY trip offshore with "salt away". My money come's hard and I tend to take TOO GOOD care of my gear. Proof is in the pudding, as far as I'm concerned, a few minute's of prevention, is worth untold hour's of grief. My hat's off to ya, for being one of the FEW that actually get's it. Don't pass the knowledge around though, if you do, many of my brethern will be out of work! Congratulation's on the re-power and the straight course you're holding on the maintainence!!!! Frank
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
bambam
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Sep 25, 2010
Posts: 1933

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No doubt about that! Salt away is good stuff.
I never have any concern about gettin on the boat with gsrsol84mm, b/c he really goes the extra mile to make sure his stuff is right. That big mamma looks like it just came from albemarle last week!
_________________
TOTAL CHAOS
1989 Albemarle 247exp, OME 5.7 325hp fwc motor/Volvo 290DPA outdrive.

I yam what I yam...
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
tanktom
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: May 21, 2009
Posts: 404
Location: Scotts Hill

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gsrsol84mm: One more question concerning the GFS-10 if you don't mind. Looking at the picture, it appears you mounted yours flat. Is this correct? The instructions mention mounting vertical to eliminate air bubbles. Any thoughts?

Oh, yea, is that the large 10 micron filter that is silver and shiny showing in one of the photos? Thanks again for your post and taking the time to discuss the GFS-10 installation!
_________________
State Time
212WA HydraSports
200 Honda 4 Stroke
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gsrsol84mm
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tanktom wrote:
gsrsol84mm: One more question concerning the GFS-10 if you don't mind. Looking at the picture, it appears you mounted yours flat. Is this correct? The instructions mention mounting vertical to eliminate air bubbles. Any thoughts?

Oh, yea, is that the large 10 micron filter that is silver and shiny showing in one of the photos? Thanks again for your post and taking the time to discuss the GFS-10 installation!


yes, I have mine mounted flat. I have not had an issues at all and it is very accurate. That being said I would go ahead and do a vertical mount on yours to be safe.
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gsrsol84mm
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WAHOONBOX wrote:
INCREDIBLE PICTORIAL AND HOW-TO.....FELT LIKE I WAS THERE WITH YOU ONLY MY HANDS ARE CLEAN....


THANKS FOR SHARING AND CONGRATS ON THE UPGRADE! AND CONGRATS TO YOUR SON!


Thank you,

My son was extremely proud of his first wahoo and mahi.
Hope to get him his first yellowfin tuna in 2012.
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gsrsol84mm
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

seapower wrote:
Hey Guy's "Apple's to Apple's,
A fwc system will no doubt (or should) out last a raw water cooled system. As for them being more complicated, I wouldn't think so.



Frank,
you are correct. With everything being equal, a fresh water system should outlast a raw water cooled motor. I think the biggest problem is the heat exchanger. Salt water runs through it and if you don't flush it out it too can corrode, reducing the cooling. I think there is a greater chance of overheating with a FWC system if you don't take care of it.

You also don't have to drain a FWC motor after each use in the winter. Many raw water cooled motors crack each winter because people don't drain them. I have brass drain cocks on the block and manifolds making it very quick and easy to drain the water out.

I have had 2 boats with raw water cooled original motors that have lasted over 25 years and were running strong. That was enough to convince me a raw water motor can last if taken care of.

Really, the key is flushing the motor after each use. I wouldn't have a problem running a fwc motor but am just as happy with my raw water cooled 5.7
If you did not flush your motor every single time after use, I would definately get a FWC motor
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Squid Row
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Jan 11, 2005
Posts: 3044
Location: 212 Miles too far to the West

PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great thread and great results!

Sounds like you really have her dialed in
_________________
Squid Row II - 23 Shamrock Inboard

Flounder Pounder II - 16 Sandpiper Skiff
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
czoubek
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Oct 06, 2009
Posts: 2223

PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What an awesome post! Thanks for taking the time to document this. Looks like a top-notch job. She should treat you well for a while now!
_________________
Port: Atlantic Beach, NC
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Timorjc
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Aug 26, 2008
Posts: 620

PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="gsrsol84mm"]

The motor is a remanufactured 5.7 motor marine motor. Not sure if there is any difference between it and a standard 350 chevy block.
quote]

Awesome post! Thank you for taking the time. The OLD engine looks very well cared for!!!

FYI, the "marine" 5.7GM blocks get a different cam, lifters, and freeze plugs. Other than that they are basically the same as the truck engines. You can buy a new GMPP block and a "marinizing" kit and convert most any GM small block to marine use. Some of the name brand marine motors have surperior paint and brackets for salt water use.

I did a Keith Black 454ci 7.4L conversion in a 26 SeaRay about 15 years back that made 590hp on a certified dyno. Low 60s WOT and 2.2MPG at 28MPH cruise. There was $16K in the motor in 1990's dollars. The guy that owned it looked just like Sonny Crocket from Miami Vice....LOL

Tim
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
seapower
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Jun 18, 2009
Posts: 1153

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Timorjc"]
gsrsol84mm wrote:


The motor is a remanufactured 5.7 motor marine motor. Not sure if there is any difference between it and a standard 350 chevy block.
quote]

Awesome post! Thank you for taking the time. The OLD engine looks very well cared for!!!

FYI, the "marine" 5.7GM blocks get a different cam, lifters, and freeze plugs. Other than that they are basically the same as the truck engines. You can buy a new GMPP block and a "marinizing" kit and convert most any GM small block to marine use. Some of the name brand marine motors have surperior paint and brackets for salt water use.

I did a Keith Black 454ci 7.4L conversion in a 26 SeaRay about 15 years back that made 590hp on a certified dyno. Low 60s WOT and 2.2MPG at 28MPH cruise. There was $16K in the motor in 1990's dollars. The guy that owned it looked just like Sonny Crocket from Miami Vice....LOL

Tim



Tim,
Don't want to start a pissin' match here. A marine gas engine should be just that a "marine use" built engine. They generate more heat in the cylinder's than do their "automotive" cousin's. Yes they will bolt together the same, but generally do not last. A marine engine is expected to turn more rpm's, which alway's push the "load" up-hill. There is no over-drive on a boat. Car's and truck's go up and down the highway 1800-2000rpm, same engine in a boat will be expected to turn 3200 at cruise. That equal's higher exhaust temp's, which in turn raise the devil with valve's, piston crown's, cylinder wall's, cam lobes, etc.............. Not saying that a "re-built" from Joe's car shop won't work, it generally just won't last. Just my 2 cent's, Frank
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gsrsol84mm
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like all the standard Marine rebuilders, such as rapido marine http://www.rapidomarine.com/ , , michigan motorz http://www.michiganmotorz.com/, marine engines for less http://www.marineengines4less.com/

use the same rebuild kits for the reman 5.7 motors. They bore them 30 thousands over and install new pistons, rings, bearings, marine cam shaft, new oil pump, grind the valves and seats, grind the crankshaft, new timing chain and supply a complete gasket set with the motor such as the felpro marine set. They spin them on a compression machine to check the compression and settings.
Most of them probably use a combination of marine and vehicle cores for the build.

So while the actual block and heads may be a standard 5.7 vehicle motor all the internals need to be the standard marine internals because they are designed to run at that magic 3200 rpm range.
Outlet Marine Engines offers the best warranty on a reman motor, 2 years unlimited hours.

The above 3 engine builders are top notch and helpful.

Marineengines4less is a great source for genuine GM parts such as oil pans, valve covers, HEI distributors with coil and wires, Vortec Intake Manifolds. All factory GM parts.

Looks like Frank and Tim are saying the same thing.
The Block and heads may be automotive but the internals need to be a marine rebuild set.
  

Last edited by gsrsol84mm on Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
seapower
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Jun 18, 2009
Posts: 1153

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just abit more on the subject. I am as many know primarily a diesel guy. I do have some very good customer's that have gas engine's though. I use only ONE supplier of re-built gas engine's. I don't feel real comfortable putting out here before the inter-net world, but they use "double roller timing chain's". I have yet to have a premature failure with them. Using a double roller chain say's alot about you need to expect that "marine" engine to do. Something you may look into also is the valve's and valve seat's. Remember, the extra heat you will be developing with these engine's, because they are alway's in a dead load. No arguement's here, just letting you in on a few thing's I've seen in the last few week's that I've been in the biz.
One other very simple thing to remember (I'm saying it for a reason) be sure you use "marine" spark plug's in the proper heat range. They will have stainless steel bases, don't be afraid to put abit of quality "never-sieze" on the thread's. They will have to come out one day. Frank
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Timorjc
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Aug 26, 2008
Posts: 620

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frank, I respect your opinion and do not completely disagree with anything you said. I was basing my comments on my experience. I was a marine tech for about 10 years before changing careers and I am factory trained by Mercury at the Fon Du Lac, Wisconson plant in both outboards and inboards and hold all of the Quicksilver certifications, as well as a CRC from Cummins Marine. I am sure much has changed in the years I have been out of the business. As always, your comments are helpful and useful to the thread.

Tim
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
ecu1984
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Oct 29, 2006
Posts: 426

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct, the biggest difference in a 350 "marine" V8 and a car 350 V8
is the cam and brass freeze plugs. The marine cam is very similar to a large truck cam (just compare the specs), the lift and duration is different. The marine cam is ground for low end torque (getting on plane) and then mid range rpm grind for fuel economy. Oh yea, and a flame arrestor for a breather.......rebuilt several of them and heard this many times straight from Mercruiser corporate support.

Rick
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
seapower
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Jun 18, 2009
Posts: 1153

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timorjc wrote:
Frank, I respect your opinion and do not completely disagree with anything you said. I was basing my comments on my experience. I was a marine tech for about 10 years before changing careers and I am factory trained by Mercury at the Fon Du Lac, Wisconson plant in both outboards and inboards and hold all of the Quicksilver certifications, as well as a CRC from Cummins Marine. I am sure much has changed in the years I have been out of the business. As always, your comments are helpful and useful to the thread.

Tim


Hey Tim,
Sound's like the biggest difference between you and me is, that you were smart enough to change career's! Yes I've got alot of "paper" too, dealer for many brand's, service school's, a pretty diploma from the "school of hard knock's", worn out joint's, etc.......

Like I said I won't argue brand's or techniques, just adding my opinion for what it's worth. I respect you opinion's and the guy's that put up this post. They did alot more than most boat owner's have a desire to do and because of their effort's they "know" the beast that makes all that racket down below. Good post and opinion's all the way around. Frank
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
JohnnyD
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Apr 04, 2006
Posts: 359
Location: Greensboro and Oak Island

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This has been a great thread and I have learned a ton.

If I could sell my center console right now, I would be very interested in finding an Albermarle and going through the repower process.

I wouldn't be able to do all the work myself, but even so, I would have something that I could take out even when the conditions aren't exactly perfect.

I've had a place at Oak Island for almost 2 years now and I think the wind has been blowing ever since I bought it. :( :( :(

Inshore fishing is great and all, but I really love fast trolling. I just don't get many days that I am comfortable taking my 19' boat out in.

I'm afraid the resale market on a boat like mine is probably really slow, but threads like this give me something to dream for!

Thanks for the great post and discussion!
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
JohnnyD
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Apr 04, 2006
Posts: 359
Location: Greensboro and Oak Island

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This has been a great thread and I have learned a ton.

If I could sell my center console right now, I would be very interested in finding an Albermarle and going through the repower process.

I wouldn't be able to do all the work myself, but even so, I would have something that I could take out even when the conditions aren't exactly perfect.

I've had a place at Oak Island for almost 2 years now and I think the wind has been blowing ever since I bought it. :( :( :(

Inshore fishing is great and all, but I really love fast trolling. I just don't get many days that I am comfortable taking my 19' boat out in.

I'm afraid the resale market on a boat like mine is probably really slow, but threads like this give me something to dream for!

Thanks for the great post and discussion!
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
seapower
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Jun 18, 2009
Posts: 1153

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JohnnyD wrote:
This has been a great thread and I have learned a ton.

If I could sell my center console right now, I would be very interested in finding an Albermarle and going through the repower process.

I wouldn't be able to do all the work myself, but even so, I would have something that I could take out even when the conditions aren't exactly perfect.

I've had a place at Oak Island for almost 2 years now and I think the wind has been blowing ever since I bought it. :( :( :(

Inshore fishing is great and all, but I really love fast trolling. I just don't get many days that I am comfortable taking my 19' boat out in.

I'm afraid the resale market on a boat like mine is probably really slow, but threads like this give me something to dream for!

Thanks for the great post and discussion!



JohnnyD,
Seriously, if you are looking for another boat (whether it be an Albermarle or whatever) I would use this time to really look hard for one you can afford. Yes the re-sale market isn't good for your current boat, but it's the same for the "next" boat you want. There are hull and runner's out there that folk's really just want to get rid of. Take your time and find one, it's out there.
If you really want to do a re-power (God only know's why?), well that just mean's a cheaper boat for your need's. I know money is an issue, it is for all of us little guy's, but having something you can build "your" dream on certainly help's. No time like the present! Frank
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
JohnnyD
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Apr 04, 2006
Posts: 359
Location: Greensboro and Oak Island

PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

seapower wrote:

If you really want to do a re-power (God only know's why?), well that just mean's a cheaper boat for your need's.


To me, buying an older hull with a known new(rebuilt) engine seems to be a good way to minimize mechanical problems and end up in a boat I can trust to make to the stream and back without having to take out a second mortgage.

I know that maintaining any boat old or new takes time and effort from day one in the saltwater environment, so I am not afraid of work - it has to be done if you're going to do it right.

Not growing up around boats, I know I would learn much more about how to maintain/repair/diagnose issues if I put in a new engine. That all adds up to more safety to me, which is always my number one concern....
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
gsrsol84mm
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A 24 Albemarle Express with a recent repower will command a premium price.
You will be far better off to purchase one with a worn out or damaged motor. I have seen some smoking deals out there.
The best deal will be a 1985 - 1990 Albemarle 24 Express that has been sitting for a couple of years, maybe the engine block cracked due to non draining of the block during winter. The boat will be dirty and nasty, the teak worn and grey.
It is like a diamond in the rough, with a little work she can be brought back to life.
The gel coats on the albemarle's are fantastic and with a little Aqua Buff compound they can be brought back to life. The teak can be sanded and vanished to make it look new.
Most the the 24's with the 120 gallon fuel tank have had very few problems
with the gas tanks.

The Volvo Penta 290 / DP-A Duo Prop Outdrives are super tough and can easily be re-sealed.

You will be far better off to find one to repower and take your time to go through the whole boat yourself. There are enough boating forums out there to help you with each step.
That way you know it will be done right and the price will be right too.

Good luck with your search.
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
tanktom
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: May 21, 2009
Posts: 404
Location: Scotts Hill

PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This looks like what you guys have been describing as a good deal. After reading this post, if I had an extra $4k laying around, I'd be all over it!

http://wilmington.craigslist.org/boa/2934432393.html
_________________
State Time
212WA HydraSports
200 Honda 4 Stroke
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gsrsol84mm
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tanktom wrote:
This looks like what you guys have been describing as a good deal. After reading this post, if I had an extra $4k laying around, I'd be all over it!

http://wilmington.craigslist.org/boa/2934432393.html


I would probably pass on this one.

It does not have a hardtop, only a bimini top.
Looks like the entire outdrive is missing including the transom shield, trim and tilt pumps and gauges.
Looks like the entire motor is missing with all the brackets for the raw water pump and alternator as well as missing the flywheel, dampner and flywheel housing.
Looks like the entire instrument cluster is also missing.

The above items are expensive to replace and you would be far better off finding a boat that has all the original parts including a hardtop for just a little bit more money.

I have seen posts on Albemarle 24's where they replaced the outdrives with a Merc Bravo or Volvo SX dives but they did not get the same gas mileage as the Volvo Penta Duo Prop 280 / 290 / DP-A drives.
The other drives seemed to average 2mpg for a day as opposed to 2.5 - 2.8 mpg with the 280 /290 / DP-A
  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gsrsol84mm
Ol'Salt
Ol'Salt


Joined: Feb 24, 2009
Posts: 606
Location: Charlotte, NC

PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE 06-12

I now have 125 hours on the repower and changed the oil at 95 hours from Rotella to Amsoil Synthetic 15w-40 Diesel & Marine oil as well as installing an Amsoil oil filter. That was my 4th oil and filter change.

Last trip we went out we did 176 miles and got 2.2 mpg. The seas were rough running out and rough coming back in.
I am very pleased how Big Mama is running and find her to be a fantastic offshore boat for 4 people.




















  
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:       
Post new topic   Reply to topic    FryingPanTower.Com Forum Index -> On The Hill All times are GMT - 4 Hours
 
 Page 1 of 1

 

Jump to:   
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum
Web Hosting with Local Support
Sportfishing Boats
Outfit Your Lifestyle
Full Service Fishing Tackle Dealer Serving Wilmington NC

Powered by phpBB © 2001-2008 phpBB Group
Forums ©